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Trailer safety inspection checklist

What an inspector actually looks at on a light trailer, written as a list you can work through in the driveway. Most failures are cheap things that take ten minutes to fix, and cost a second booking if you find out at the station.

The scope

What the inspector is looking at

Access Canberra describes a roadworthy inspection as a check of wheels and tyres, suspension and brakes, lights and reflectors, the overall structure and the identifying numbers. It does not check general condition or mechanical reliability. On a trailer, "structure" means the coupling, chains, drawbar, chassis and mudguards, and "identifying numbers" means the compliance plate and VIN. NSW safety checks cover the same ground.

When an inspection is required, and where to book one, is on trailer rego in the ACT, which also covers NSW pink and blue slips for Queanbeyan. This page is only about passing it.

The checklist

Go over these before you book

Lights and reflectors

Every trailer needs two tail lamps, two brake lamps, two indicators, a number plate lamp, and reflectors at the rear, front and sides. Wider than 2,100 mm or longer than 6,000 mm adds clearance and side marker lamps. Hitch up, run each function, and check for cracked or faded lenses.

Wiring and plug

A 7 or 12 pin plug to the Australian standard. Pull the plug apart and look for green corrosion on the pins. Follow the cable: no chafing where it enters the drawbar, no joins wrapped in tape, nothing hanging low enough to catch. A bad earth shows as lamps that flicker when the indicator is on.

Tyres

The ACT standard is 1.5 mm of tread in a continuous band across the contact width and right round the tyre. Look for cracking in the sidewall, which is common on trailers that sit outside, and for bulges. Both tyres on an axle should match, and the load rating on the sidewall must cover the trailer's weight. Check the pressure against the placard.

Wheels and nuts

All nuts present and tight, no elongated stud holes, no cracks around the centre or the rim. A wheel with rust streaks running out from the nuts has been loose. Spin each wheel and watch for wobble.

Bearings

Jack each wheel, grab it at twelve and six and rock it. Play you can feel, or a rumble or grinding when you spin it, is a bearing on the way out. Grease thrown around the inside of the rim means a failed seal. Bearings fail more trailers at the roadside than anything else: see servicing and repairs.

Brakes

Over 750 kg GTM a trailer must have brakes. Over 2,000 kg GTM they must act on all wheels, work from the driver's seat, and apply on their own for at least 15 minutes if the trailer breaks away. For override brakes, the coupling slide should move freely and the cable and adjusters should not be seized. For electric brakes, test the breakaway switch and its battery. How this relates to your tow vehicle is on towing capacity.

Coupling

A 50 mm ball coupling must be stamped with the maker's name, "50" and a rating of 750, 2,000 or 3,500 kg, and the rating must be at least the trailer's ATM. The latch must lock positively and release at any angle. Check the handle, pin and bolts are tight and nothing is cracked or worn oval.

Safety chains

At least one chain up to 2,500 kg ATM, two above it, mounted one each side of the drawbar and crossed. The chain carries a marking such as 4177-25 on every fourth link; no marking, no provable rating. The chain is fixed to a structural part of the drawbar close to the coupling, and is short enough to stop the drawbar hitting the road if the coupling lets go.

Jockey wheel

Part of "structure" rather than a listed standard. The clamp should hold firmly, the wheel should wind up and swing clear of the road, and the mount should not be cracked or bent.

Drawbar and chassis

Look along the drawbar from the front: it should be straight. Check every weld at the coupling, the chain mounts, the spring hangers and the crossmembers for cracks, especially in the paint. Rust that flakes when you tap it is a fail; surface rust is not. Why some chassis rust and others do not: galvanised vs painted.

Mudguards

Every wheel must have a guard that covers the full width of the tyre. Guards must be solidly mounted, not rubbing the tyre, and without sharp torn edges.

Compliance plate and VIN

The plate must be present, fixed to the trailer and readable: tare, ATM and the 17 character VIN. Wipe it clean before you go. Any VIN stamped on the drawbar must match the plate and the paperwork. A missing or unreadable plate stops the inspection before it starts.

Number plate and its light

Mounted at the rear with the long edge horizontal, no part higher than 1,300 mm, not hidden by a tailgate, spare wheel or ramp, and lit at night. The plate lamp is the one most owners never notice has died.

Load restraint points

Not a listed item, but loose or cracked tie-down rails and hooks count as "structure". Grab each one and pull. Anything that moves at the weld needs re-welding before it carries a load.

The plate's tare and ATM are what the checker reads the brake and chain rules against. If those terms are new, start with trailer weights explained.
The usual suspects

What fails most often

Nearly all of it is small. A dead globe or a plate lamp. A plug full of corrosion. A cracked lens on the indicator. A chain with no rating stamp, or one chain where the ATM calls for two. Tyres that have plenty of tread but are cracked through the sidewall from years in the sun. A compliance plate painted over or rusted blank. Bearings with play. A mudguard that has rusted off its mount.

The expensive fails are rarer: a cracked drawbar weld, a seized override coupling, or a chassis rail rusted through. Those are repairs, not maintenance, and worth getting looked at before the booking rather than after. If you would rather have someone check the trailer first, Resort Trailers' rego inspections page explains how that works for NSW trailers.

More guides

Keep reading

ATM, GTM, tare and payload explained What ATM, GTM, tare, payload and ball weight actually mean on a trailer compliance plate, and how to work out what you can really carry. How much can your car actually tow? Braked and unbraked towing capacity, tow bar and ball weight ratings, GCM, and when a trailer legally needs its own brakes. Choosing a trailer size and type How to pick a trailer size you will not regret, when to go tandem instead of single axle, and which of the seventeen trailer types suits your job. Galvanised or painted? Rust, frost and the Canberra climate Why hot-dip galvanising outlasts paint, where trailers actually rust, and what frost, UV and the run to the coast do to a trailer around Canberra. Registering a trailer around Canberra Which side of the border you register with, what a new trailer needs before it can be registered, and what to check when buying a used trailer. Trailer rego in the ACT When Access Canberra needs to inspect a trailer, what the ACT fee cut actually was, how to check a rego before buying used, and the NSW rules for Queanbeyan. Servicing and repairing a trailer What a trailer service covers, how often to do it, the parts that actually wear, and why a trailer specialist is better set up for it than a general workshop. Hiring a trailer vs buying one in Canberra What trailer hire costs around Canberra, the hidden costs of hiring and owning, the rough break-even, and what an older trailer costs to keep registered. What a trailer costs to own around Canberra ACT and NSW trailer rego fees by weight, the 2025 fee cut, injury cover, optional insurance, servicing, tyres, storage and a worked year for a 7x4 box trailer. Towing a trailer from Canberra to the coast Getting a trailer, boat or camper down Clyde Mountain and back: NSW towing rules, brake fade, salt water and bearings, the pre-trip walk around, where to stop. 6x4, 7x4, 7x5 or 8x5: which box trailer size? Box trailer deck sizes in mm, typical tare and ATM, when a size needs brakes, cage heights, what fits, and the ACT tip rules that apply whatever size you pick.
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